Tea Education

The Tea Plant

Tea is an evergreen plant of the Camellia family. It grows best in hot and humid conditions with temperatures ranging from 50-85 F, rainfall of 80-90 inches a year, and elevations from 1,000-7,000 feet. A combination of altitude and humidity promotes the desired slow growth, and the higher elevation teas are generally more prized.

Many of the world's most famous teas - high grown Ceylons, China's Wuyi's, India's Darjeeling's, Taiwan's Tung Ting - come from bushes cultivated above 4,000 feet. Tea bushes can be harvested after three to five years. In some parts of the world, the plants go on growing throughout the year, while in others there is a dormant winter period. The leaves are plucked as the new shoots - or "flush" are beginning to grow. In hotter conditions, the plants have several flushes. Leaves from the early flushes are widely sought after, but it is the second flushes that are considered to give the finest teas. For the best quality tea, pickers remove two leaves and a bud from each new shoot.

The most exclusive teas come from just five countries - Ceylon (Sri Lanka), China, Formosa (Taiwan), India and Japan. India is the world's largest tea producer. However, another twenty-three tea growing countries also offer good quality specialty teas. Indonesia, for instance, produces the Java Taloon. Sikkim, a small Indian protectorate in the Himalayas, produces Temi rivaling the best Darjeeling. Nepal, with its Everest plantations, also produces fine tea. Georgia, Turkey and Iran in the Near East, Brazil and Argentina in South America, and Tanzania, Malawi, Kenya, South Africa andUganda produce average teas destined for tea bags.

Varietals

Tea comprises a family of plant varietals. At a high level, the two most distinct varietal heads are Camellia Assamica and Camellia Sinensis. Assamica has larger broader leaves and is dominant in the Indian sub-continent, parts of Yunnan, China, Indonesia and parts of Africa. Sinenis is dominant in China, Taiwan and parts of the Indian sub-continent.

Similar to roses or grapes, each plant varietal tastes, looks and grows uniquely. Soil nourishment and processing techniques further amplify the distinctions. Each tea country not only has its native varietals, but also clonal and newly propogated varieties that have been developed over the years. For example, the original tea plants in Taiwan were primarily transplated from Fujian province of China. But over the years, Taiwan has develeoped its own varietals, better suited for its climate and able to produce enhanced flavor.

For understanding tea's flavors, it is necessary to study the varietal type at a detailed level. After all, all tea farmers and processors keep a close eye on the varietal to choose the processing style. Most are suitable only for a particular processing style (oolong, green, white, black or puer). Among others, the following areas have been known to be the original areas for certain processing styles - Fujian, China for White and Oolong teas, Assam and Darjeeling for orthodox style blacks, Ali Shan and Lugu, Taiwan for Green Oolongs, Zhejiang for Pan Roasted Greens, Yunnan for Puers and Nwara Eliya, Sri Lanka for Tippy Blacks.

The Seed

Tea is propagated either from seeds or by vegetative means. In most regions, the tea plant will typcially bear seeds in the fall. The seed has a thick green outer coating to begin, and will eventually darken and become hard with time. This is also at the same time that the tea plant bears its flowers. In propogating tea plants, seed bearing tea trees, selected for yield and quality, are cross-fertilized, and the seed sown in new seed orchards. It requires 4-12 years for the tea plant to start bearing the seed. A single bush about 10 years in age will produce at least 40-50 seeds per year. Farmers will typically select the better seeds for their nursery and raise them into seedlings protected from strong sun and wind.

In addition to using the seeds for propogating more plants, tea seeds are also used to make Tea Oil, which is becoming more popular these days. The Camellia varietals used for this purpose and widely cultivated are Camellia. japonica (commonly called japonica) and Camellia sasanqua and, especially, the Asian Camellia. oleifera. High quality tea oil is cold-pressed and low in the fat content.

Tea Freshness

Tea loses its freshness once it leaves its origin. Although tea stored in climate controlled environments (dark, dry and odorless), or in quality packaging (vacuum tight canisters or nitrogen flush bags), has enhanced longevity, loss in freshness is unavoidable.
Too often, we find tea in the marketplace that is old, stale and flavorless. Interestingly, the tea trade in the United States has no clear or apparent industry standard that mandates tea merchants to adhere to time bound product offerings.

As merchants of the leaf, we are obligated to inform, educate and offer the freshest pure leaf teas. We choose to evaluate our teas on an on-going basis, and inform our customers of their evolving quality and ability to provide a flavorful brew. Our criteria is based on:

Aroma - A tea's aroma is one of its most definitive characteristics. It is the first aspect of the tea we experience as we prepare it and take the first sip. The aroma comes mainly from the tea's essential oils, which are among the most volatile elements in the leaf and the first to dissipate over time. We frequently brew and drink each of our teas to monitor changes in fragrance and presence of aromatic essential oils - How has the aroma changed since we first acquired the tea? What is the appearance of the infusion? Is the surface bright and glistening, indicating the presence of aromatic and flavorful oils, or dull and clouded?

Body - Another important factor is the body of the infusion. In a broad sense, this encompasses the taste and mouth-feel of the tea. As we evaluate our teas, we look for changes in the fullness of taste on the palette as well as the texture of the beverage - Is the taste still full and balanced or has it become thin or flat? Has the tea retained its distinctive viscosity or crispness or has it faded?

Appearance/Physical Qualities of the Leaf - As tea ages it tends to lose moisture as well as increase in oxidation. We regularly check our teas for changes in both the appearance and physical properties of the leaf to evaluate increased oxidation and loss of moisture over time - Is the color of the leaf vibrant and distinct or comparably faded, darkened and dull from increased oxidation? Is the leaf slightly springy and resilient or thin and excessively brittle, indicating moisture loss?

Of course, these criteria vary depending on the type of tea. Particular teas are valued for distinctive characteristics that are affected by exposure and time in a variety of ways. The differences in evaluating a fine Gyuokuro from Japan and a dark-roasted Oolong from Taiwan, for example, can be quite drastic. Puer and certain black and oolong teas can actually improve with age if stored correctly.

Water Quality

Because a brewed cup of tea is mostly water, the quality of your water is as important as the tea leaves themselves. Beyond just using any spring water or filtered water, there are a number of factors that will affect the taste of your infusion.

For centuries, Chinese tea aficionados have designated water from specific springs as the best water for brewing certain teas. A famous example is Dragon Well tea, which is considered best when brewed with water from the famous Tiger-Run Spring. Ancient tea masters would even have fresh water from renowned springs carried many miles in stone containers to ensure they had the best water for their tea. This is because subtle variations in the pH (acidity, alkalinity) and mineral content (Total Dissolved Solids, or TDS) of the water can affect the taste of the brew. Generally, higher mineral content can give a fuller, sweeter taste, while water with a lower mineral content can taste slightly sharper and bright. The types of minerals present will also change the taste and body of the tea. Calcium is needed for a full, sweet taste, whereas magnesium and iron are detrimental to the flavor of the brew. Distilled water should never be used because it lacks trace minerals and gives a flat, lifeless taste. The pH of the water can have similar effects, though closer to neutral (a pH of 7 is neutral) or slightly alkaline is generally considered best for tea.

If you are using tap water, some sort of filtration is usually recommended. You want to remove chlorine and other chemicals as well as sediment from your water without eliminating too many trace minerals. The composition of tap water varies from region to region and can found on the EPA or AMWA websites or from your local Water Quality Analysis. It is fun and informative to experiment using different bottled waters and filtering techniques with a favorite tea to experience the importance of good water and to find your own preferences